23.Aug.2013
Lesson learned: never give your name to a young souvenir
tout. With two days left on my visit to Myanmar and only a 7th of my
budget left to spend, I’m trying to learn to say no, but I think I might have
nightmares because of it. This evening, after a long day of more temple
touring, I went on a sunset cruise along the Ayarwaddy River. When we embarked,
there was a crowd of people trying to sell me souvenirs, and I told all of
them, “no, thank you.” One young boy said, “maybe later,” to which I didn’t
even reply. He asked where I was from and what my name was; he was probably
about 10 years old.
My guide and I drifted along the river watching the sunset
behind the hills and drinking gin and watermelon juice. The local villagers
were bathing and washing clothes in the river. Babies in their mothers’ arms
waved as we passed by. Young boys would seemingly appear from nowhere as they
jumped from the treetops into the river. The traditional longyi, a type of
sarong worn by the men here, doubled as a towel for the guys to dry off after
their dip in the river. The simple bamboo floors of their houses would have
likely splintered under my weight. They didn’t have much, but they were all
smiling, laughing, and enjoying life for what it is. I chose not to take any
pictures because I felt like it was an intrusion on the privacy of the
villagers, and I selfishly wanted to take in their smiles through my own two
eyes and not the lens of a camera.
Once the saffron colored sun had disappeared behind the
horizon, we headed quickly back to the riverside. The sales team was out in
force to welcome me back to dry land, but I held firm and told them all no. As
I climbed into the van, I heard the voice of the young boy running towards me
crying out my name. “But I waited for you! Please don’t leave!” It crushed me
to drive away hearing him still
calling out to me by name. My guide seemed
somehow proud of me for finally saying no to someone, but it felt like a punch
to the gut each time the boy cried out my name. Just thinking about it again
makes me want to grab a ride back to the river right now to give him the dollar
he wanted for his postcards. It’s difficult to admit, but I look forward to
returning to Austria where I can callously ignore people asking for money since
most of them honestly have little appreciation for all that they have.
Now, I am laying in my bed listening to the sound of the man
playing a wooden xylophone at the hotel restaurant. Sounds are such an integral
part of the travel experience for me. I can’t imagine being in a new place and
having my ears plugged with headphones and my iPod blaring. If it were just
about seeing a place, one could sit at home and look at photos on the internet.
No, traveling is about experiencing a place. Feeling the heavy sticky heat,
smelling wafts of shrimp paste and pickled tealeaves, and earing the
clickety-clack of the boat motors over the laughter of children and the chimes
of the temples. Drowning out real life with the sounds one listens to day after
day is wasteful of life’s gifts. Some people get bored without music, but, as
much as I love music, I believe the sounds around us can be far more
entertaining. You just have to learn to relax and listen. Hear sounds, identify
them, and try to visualize them. It’s a sport of the mind that will engrave
everlasting memories into your brain. Sadly, I am going to drift off to sleep
hearing a young postcard salesman yelling my name, hoping to earn just one
dollar from my pocket.
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